During the second half of our trip, which was a private safari in Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Namibia, we were accompanied by Paula Schafer, a close friend from nearby Petaluma, whom had never traveled in Africa.  She met us at the pictured view site of the Centurion Lake Hotel near Pretoria when we had completed our South Africa Field Guides, Inc. trip.  On October 31, we flew to Maun, a stepping-off point for many of the safaris in Botswana, where we were met by a travel representative.  This trip itinerary was arranged via a series of e-mails between Rich and Brent Reed, who along with his brother - Grant, both 30-somethings, are the owners of Letaka Safaris---www.letakasafaris.com.  Brent had been asked to create a trip which combined birding with watching other wildlife while also providing plenty of outstanding opportunities for photography: THIS trip delivered!

As with South Africa, Botswana's first people were also the San, formerly called the Bushmen, who lived in this area ~30,000 years BC.  They were followed by the Khoikhoi, thought to be a breakway San group.  Collectively the language group of both is Khoisan.  During the 1st and 2nd Century AD, Bantu migrated there from the north.  The groups traded and intermarried.  The Bantu group known as the Tswana came from present-day South Africa during the 14th Century to colonise the country's SE strip and are today's largest population group.  Early Christians arrived in 1817 and the Boers attempted to inhabit the lands beginning in the mid-1800's.   This evolved into the first Anglo-Boer War in 1877.  The struggle for control continued and in 1885 lands south of the Molopo River became the British Crown Colony of Bechuanaland and were attached to the Cape Colony while the area norht became the British Protectorate of Bechuanaland.  Nationalism appeared in the late 1940s and on 30 September 1966 the country, now the Republic of Botswana peacefully gained its independence.

The country has 1.7 million inhabitants and its capital is Gaborone.  English and Setswana are the official languages.  Highligted in the white square above is the Botswana flag.  The average life expectancy is 55.6 years.  The natural resources include diamonds, cattle, wildlife, copper and nickel. 

In Maun, we were met at the airport by this pilot and transferred via light aircraft to a landing strip in the Xakanaxa region of Moremi Game Reserve.  There we met Brent Reed, (below), who was our affable driver, mechanic, guide, tracker, translator and trouble-shooter throughout our 3-week adventure.

Flying from Maun, (above), which is near the edge of the Kalahari Desert, we were struck by the change in vegetation when we reached the Okavango Delta region.

On our way to our HATAB (Hospitality and Tourism Association Board) campsite #8 at Croc Pools, we came upon a pride of lions.   

          We enjoyed watching the juveniles 'play'.

And the regal males drink.

Driving onward, we were instructed crocodiles meant NO SWIMMING in the rivers or pools!  (See the Blacksmith Plover in flight.)

We came upon this hippopotamus, which had recently been in a fight.  Note there are several Redbilled Oxpeckers cleaning the wounds on the abdomen and shoulder.

A Southern Ground-Hornbill picks its way through the grass.  This is a male as the female has a blue throat patch.  This species is threatened throughout much of its range.

A male red Lechwe displays his heavily built profile with elevated haunches while another Blacksmith Plover walks in the background to its right.

Wattled Cranes, which are becoming endangered, were seen at close range several places in Botswana.  As we're now trying to see all 15 members of the Crane Family, sighting them and the Blue Cranes meant we've seen 12 of them.

Cape Buffalo were on the move out of the riverine areas and into the grasses to graze as we approached our campsite.  Brent commented the lions were nearby due to the prescence of the buffalo.

Dean in front of his wash basin and our 'bush-camping' tent.  Note: It had a canvas- protected pit toilet off the back end.  Our shower was a smaller square canvas 'room' with a bucket and attached shower fixture hung from a tree.  Water was heated to your requested temperature. 

Dean, Rich and Brent reading during our mid-day break under the dining area canopy.  Our routine was to be awakened just before dawn by a member of our support staff in time for coffee and a light breakfast before departing to explore the area in our game drive vehicle with Brent.  Then we would return to camp for a sumptuous brunch and an opportunity to enjoy an afternoon siesta/shower follwed by an afternoon game drive to take in the region before retiring to camp around sundown and a 3-course dinner. 

During the first 6 days of 'bush-camping', Margaret, who hailed from Zimbabwe, was our cook while Blacky (center) and Johnny set up and moved our campsites, retrieved water, served the food, et cetera.  All were very friendly. 

Letaka Safaris is one of the few safari companies to also offer herp safaris.  Brent is sharing a Spotted Bush Snake he'd climbed a tree to catch.

We saw many Red-billed Hornbills like this one which was photographed in early morning light.  Because Brent is an avid photographer, he was excellent at positioning the vehicle to take advantage of the natural light.

Helmeted Guineafowl were also common in Moremi, especially early in the morning.

A Coppery-tailed Coucal makes its way through the grass near one of the channels of the Xakanaxa Lediba Lagoon.

A Southern Carmine Bee-eater is a common summer visitor to Southern Africa.

A Broad-billed Roller perches high in a dead tree.  It is the smallest roller in the region and the only one with a bright yellow bill.

A Hamerkop (Afrikans for 'hammer-head) walks through the grass near the river.

A Red-crested Korhan is a common resident of the semi-dry Kalahari desert grassland and thornveld.

A Burchell's Starling perches on the end of a downed branch in Moremi.

A brown eyed male Saddle-billed Stork stalks through the grassland.  (Females have bright yellow eyes.)

During a boat cruise in the channels of the Xakanaxa Lediba (Lagoon) we found several Malibu Stork offspring.

Blue Waxbills were seen feeding near one of the roads.

A pair of Water Thick-knees was present along a water course.

Exiting Moremi we camped along the Khwai River in Sabel Alley where Brent was licensed to provide us with the experience of a Walking Safari, something we had never done.  He carried a 375 H & H Magnum elephant rifle, which he did pull back and cock at a menacing hippopotamus; but he confided because he's (hopefully) observed good judgement, he has never had to shoot. 

Brent noted Hooded Vultures circling and led us on foot single file to this recent kill.  Tracks in the area suggested wild dogs had hunted down both an adult impala and a 'lamb'.  We were told that WHATEVER happens, DO NOT turn and RUN! 

An African Barred Owlet was repeating its soft, 'kerrr-kerrr-kerr' call near our campsite, which allowed Brent to locate it.

On a game drive along the Khwai River, we saw a pair of Lilac-breasted Rollers.  This is the national bird of Botswana.

We also saw a pair of African Pygmy Geese; the male is on the left.

An adult Bateleur posed cooperatively.  It is an eagle with a distinctive flight, as it cants side to side with the wings held slightly angled upwards and has a short tail.

An African Fish Eagle was also a willing photographic subject, appearing similar to our Bald eagle.

The beautiful and irredescent Cape Glossy Starling was common, also.

This African Jacana has extremely long toes and nails, that enable it to walk over floating vegetation...a so-called Jesus Christ bird as it 'walks on water'.

A male Greater Painted-Snipe freezes near our safari vehicle.

An African sunset over the Khwai River near Sabel Alley.

Next, we departed for Savuti in Chobe National Park, which is famous for it's large population of bull elephants.

We stopped in the shade of a 2,000+ year-old Baobab tree for lunch enroute.

After arriving at Savuti, we ventured to one of the 3 water holes in the region where we watched these bull elephants mix soil with water and spray it over their bodies.  After it caked and dried, they would find a rubbing post or rock outcropping where they'd scratch it off, removing the encased parasites, larvae and reducing skin irritation.

During a game drive in Chobe that afternoon, Dean spied a leopard laying out in the open in the shade of a tall bush.

With assistance from our Brent, who also enjoyed digital photography, we were positioned to take some wonderful sunset photos while in Chobe.

A young Tsessebe looks to its mother for instruction how to respond to strangers in a safari vehicle.

Our final afternoon exploration in Savuti took us up Bushman Hill to inspect some rock etchings.  The vantage point gave us a good view of the mopane forest.

Paula took this photo of us from below.

Brent pointed out the details of these Bushmen paintings, which were etched into the rock 400 - 600 years ago.

Driving NE through Kasane, Botswana, we continued along the road to the border crossing into Zimbabwe, the former Rhodesia, which has a population of 13 million.

After a hassle at the Zimbabwe border where the Customs Official demanded a $15,000 cash deposit from Dean and I in order to enter the country, our quick-thinking guide arranged for us to enter Zimbabwe via a different border crossing from Zambia.  This is the Zimbabwe flag flying at our hotel (below).

We stayed at this old colonial hotel which had been built by the British in 1902.  The grounds were stunning and the service good as the ratio of staff to guests was easily 5 to 1 due to the abscence of visitors in the country.

The exchange rate was $5,596.35 Zimbabwean dollars per $1.00 US.

Guttural Frogs croaked the night away in the pond at the Victoria Falls Hotel.

We convinced each other to go back into Zambia near Livingston for an ultra-light flight over Victoria Falls and the nearby game reserve.

The pilot of Paula's ultra-light aircraft prepares to taxi to the dirt runway for takeoff.

Rich over Victoria Falls, the Smoke that Thunders, one of the 7 natural wonders of the world.  The water in the Zambesi River drops 354 feet into a narrow gorge.  For friends who have pondered WHO took this photo, the camera was mounted below the left wingtip and controlled by the ultra-light pilot.  We just provided the roll of film.

Dean in his ultra-light with a different view of Vic Falls below.

After birding along the Zambezi River for some special birds, we went into Victoria Falls NP for closer views of the various parts of Victoria Falls; this is the Devil's Cataract.

A view toward the Main Falls from within Victoria Falls NP-Zimbabwe.

Looking into the chasm below Victoria Falls.

Leaving Zimbabwe, we journeyed across a corner of Botswana into Namibia's Caprivi Strip that extends across the top of Botswana.  Namibia had originally been annexed as a German colony in the late 1800's.  In 1914, South West Africa, as Namibia was known, surrendered to a South African expeditionary army fighting on behalf of the Allies.  After being a mandate under South Africa for years, the country finally gained independence in March 1990.  This is their flag below.

Driving across the Caprivi Strip, watchful for elephants, we drove through several habitats before turning south to Lianshulu Lodge on the Kwando River.

This was the exterior of our thatched chalet there.  The interior is below complete with a 'box' of dark green mosquito netting which lowered over our beds.  This was probably our favorite lodge as the chef was trained at a culinary school in London and they had a good South African wine list.

On the wildlife drive in the Mudumu National Park, we succeeded in getting up-close and personal with a family herd of elephants.

This elephant fans her ears at us in a display of aggression due to our closeness.

They soon ambled off to drink before taking their youngsters back into the forests to browse.

A Roan antelope peers back at us with its long, drooping ears.

Several beautiful White-browed (Heuglin's) Robin-chats were around the lodge.

Rich discovered a pair of African Paradise Flycatchers who were building their nest from gathered cobwebs and grasses.  This is the male with its ~8" tail feathers.

Afternoons included a cruise on the Kwando River to see some of the more aquatic wildlife in the area.  Rich enjoyed sitting in front and spotting along with the guides.

 A hippopotamus gestures menacingly upon our craft's approach.

An African Darter watches us warily.

Continuing westward, we arrived entered Namibia's famous Etosha National Park where we stopped at Fort Namutoni, built by the German cavalry in 1899 to control Owambo uprisings.  It has now been restored for use as a Rest Camp and we stayed here 1 night. 

Mud-coated Warthogs grazed on the grass near the buildings.

A Marico Sunbird calls from high in a mapone tree near the Fort.

A pair of Kirk's Dikdik, very slender, small antelope browse on fresh growth.

A coarse-haired Banded Mongoose finishes eating a larvae.

Giraffes 'bow' to drink from a waterhole.  Their long neck is matched only by the length of their legs, producing a slow-motion lope which covers ground at a fast rate.  Its Arabic-derived name means "fast walker".  They can run at 36 miles per hour.

Both sexes develop 'horns' above the eyes.  They are composed of hair.

Necking behaviour in young males appearts to result in some sort of hierarchy being established amongst them.  They stand shoulder to shoulder and attempt to deliver an effective blow with the head.

A male Kori Bustard displays by ballooning out his neck and upper breast feathers while he also raising slightly a short creast.  Kori Bustards are the largest flying bird species. 

A Southern Oryx (Gemsbok) is a thick-necked antelope with long, straight horns 24 - 48 " and a long, bushy black tail.  It is a grazer that will turn to browse in the abscence of grass and can go without water. 

Brent spotted a Flap-necked Chameleon trying to cross the road.  It is the most common 'true' chameleon in Africa.

Can you spot the leopard?  Paula did!!!

Fortunately, this leopard wished to cross the roadway.

A Springbuck (Springbok) is a gazelle-like antelope with white underparts extending well up the sides.

A Burchell's zebra shows its 'signature' facial pattern: each one unique.

Brent deposits a Geometric Tortoise back onto the sand.

This Black-backed Jackal was similar to several which came into our camp one night.  It is closely associated with dry Acacia savannahs, though it adapts to most habitat types.

Blue Cranes were also present in Etoshia National Park.  Their dark 'bustle' is composed of the inner secondary flight feathers.

Male Greater Kudus have a series of 4 - 12 pale stripes on the side of the body and spiral horns which may reach 4 feet in length along the curve.

The female Greater Kudu lacks the spiral horn and vary in color from a sandy, yellowish grey to russet.

We also saw Hartebeest, which are a large, high-shouldered, deep-chested antelope.

A White-Quilled (Northern Black) Bustard moves through the grass feeding on insects and seeds.

Our Land Cruiser and guide at the Etosha Pan, the 'Great White Place of Dry Water'.

The vast white and greenish-coloured Etosha Pan reminded us of the Great Salt Lake.

An African Cuckoo sits in a mapone tree at the Halali Rest Camp, where we had a buffet lunch.  The barred undertail, not visible in this photo, plus the amount of yellow on the bill helps seperate it from the European (Eurasian) Cuckoo.

This African Scops Owl was difficult to find amongst all the trees at Halali.  Rich finally paid a security guard $10 Namibian (~$1.60 US) to point it out to us.

A Lappet-faced Vulture prepares to launch itself into the air.  Its bill developes tremendous force and it can crush bones at a kill, adding to the calcium intake for all the predators.

While the Martial Eagle is known as the 'antelope hunter' because it can take small ones.  This one has a Springhare (a rodent that hops like a miniature kangaroo) in its right talon.

A male Namaqua Sandgrouse holds perfectly still, hoping we will overlook it.

This pair of Pale-chanting Goshawks were stunning in late afternoon light.

A South African Ground Squirrel looks around for danger.  When feeding on all 4 legs, it uses its bushy tail like an umbrella in order to protect itself from the glaring sun.

Though we 'dipped' on both Temminck's and Burchell's Coursers, we had great looks at several Double-Banded Coursers instead.   

The territory between the Skeleton Coast on the Atlantic and Namibia's Central Plateua is referred to as "Damaraland" after the people who make up much of its population.  There we visited a garden of scattered Petrified tree trunks up to 34 meters long and 6 meters around, which are estimated to be ~260 millions years old.

At the Petrified Forest, Welwitschia was also growing.  It can live to be 2,000 years of age and only blooms ~every 20 years.

In Damaraland, we also visited Twyfelfontein (Doubful Spring), home to 6,000-year-old petroglyphs, created by cutting through the hard patina covering the sandstone.  Footprints were used instead of a signature.  Can you spot the giraffe, an elephant, an antelope and a crane?

Finding Rupell's Korhaan, we realized we'd seen all of the bustards in Southern Africa.

This Western form of the Rufous-naped Lark was singing after 'perching up'.

Driving further west toward the Namib Desert near Brandberg (Fire Mountain), we saw this modern cart: it had rubber tires.

The territory between the Skeleton Coast and Namibia's Central Plateau has been known as Damaraland, after the people who live there.  Rising above the plains is Brandberg or Fire Mountain, so named for the effect the setting sun has on its western face.  The summit, Konigstein, is Namibia's highest point at 8,440 feet.

Rich at the entrance to the White Lady B&B near Brandberg.  An unexpected rain-storm in the middle of the night caused all of us to have to move our beds in an attempt to stay dry.

Finally we reached the Atlantic Ocean and though we stayed in Swakopmund, we spent a lot of time in Walvis Bay where these Greater Flamingos are feeding.

The pinks against the blue Atlantic were beautiful in the morning light.

Brent had arranged for us to go kayaking with Jeanne Mientjes' company, Eco-Marine Kayak Tours: www.gateway-africa.com/kayak/index.html .  We had a wonderful morning adventure complete with Cape Fur Seals, the endemic Heavy-sided Dolphins, many new seabirds and good weather.

Dean with Cape Fur Seals on shore in the background.

Brent at times paddled fast enough the dolphins were attracted to the prow of his kayak.

Due to his torn rotator cuff, Jeanne provided power for Rich's kayak and he shot video.

This Cape Teal with it's red eyes and pink bill was one of the last water birds we saw as we headed inland again.

Leaving the coast, we drove east to Welwitschia Drive with its other-worldly moon landscape.  Stopping for lunch, we were greeted by the Namib form of the Tractrac Chat.

Brent and Dean climbed up for a distant view as we headed toward Namib-Naukluft Park, one of the world's largest national parks.  It takes in >23,000 sq km of desert and semi-desert, including the diverse habitats of the Namib Desert Park between the Kuiseb and Swakop Rivers, the Naukluft, the dune fields around Sossusvlei (see the photos later) and the bird lagoon at Sandwich Harbor.

This was the dining area of our camping site in Namib Desert Park at Bloedkoppie (Blood Hill).  Patrick (Paddy) Hill, a friend of the Reed brothers, along with a young man named Manfred, provided safari campsite support during this part of our trip.

We climbed up for the view as the sun was setting over the desert landscape.  

A close-up of a tall Quiver Tree.

The desert vistas were stunning, especially in the early morning light.

Mountain Zebra, which are less common, exhibit evenly spaced, vertical black and white stripes on the neck and body with a sudden 'change of scale' to 3 or 4 BOLD, horizontal stripes on the hindquarters. 

Though Brent was driving 60 km/hr, this Ostrich had no difficulty keeping up with us as this largest of birds can run at speeds up to 70 km/hr..

Arriving at Sesriem, the closest camping site to Sossusvlei, we discovered Paddy had located our campsite with a view of nearby Elim Dune.

This was the first campsite where we were close to others.  The trade off was running water, a pool, bar and flush toilets.

The low rock wall did NOT keep out the jackals at night.

Rich films the landscape beyond our campsite.

Due to the blowing sand and Rich's broken foot, we didn't climb to the top of Elim Dune with our Brent, preferring to wait and be able to explore dunes the next morning.

The sun slowing sinking over Elim dune behind us produced this low and lovely light on the trees and mountains in the distance.  

Swinging around, Dean catches the sun as it disappears into some clouds above Elim Dune and continues to disappear, lighting up the sky with a beautiful orange.

The next morning, we arose ~4:30 a.m. and left at 5 a.m. in order to drive the last hour to Sossuvlei and arrive at dawn.  It proved to be worth the effort.

A Pale-chanting Goshawk sits on the crest of a red sand dune.

Sossusvlei is a large ephemeral pan, set amid red sand dunes that tower to 600+ feet above the valley floor.  It is the most accessible part of the 180 mile long and 90 mile wide sand sea that covers part of western Namibia.  It contans the world's highest, oldest and arguably most picturesque dunes.  We'll leave that to the viewer.....

A sprinkle of rain can speckle the pattern of waves.

As only a few sprinkles had fallen on our campsite the night before, Brent drove us to Sesriem Canyon to go hiking.  However, somewhere else in the Tsauchab River cachement basin there had been enough rain to send water rushing down the canyon toward the sand of sea.  Brent walked in to test the depth as he'd never seen it like this despite many trips to the area. 

Following his assessment, we opted to hike along the canyon edge above instead.

At last all good things must come to an end...while returning to Windhoek to begin our 34 hour return trip home, we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn.  It is the line of latitude located at 23°30' south. The Sun is directly overhead the Tropic of Capricorn on the summer solstice in the Southern Hemisphere (Dec. 20 or 21) and it marks the southernmost point of the tropics.

It had been an UNFORGETTABLE trip.