Southern Africa is usually defined as the area south of the Kunene and Zambezi Rivers.  This encompasses Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, South Africa, Lesotho, Swaziland and southern/central Mozambique. 

For 7 weeks during October and November 2004, we rode ~12,000 km (~7,200 miles) by car through many parts of Southern Africa.  Aided by 2 internal flights within South Africa (Johannesburg to Uppington & Cape Town to Durban) and later a flight from Johannesburg to Maun, Botswana, followed by a private transfer in a Cessna 176 to our first 'bush' camp, we visited many habitats within this part of the African continent.  

Our first 3+ weeks were as participants on a Field Guides Inc. tour.  This was their 10th trip as they began travel to South Africa as soon as apartheid fell.  Having arranged to arrive a day+ early, we hired a private driver, George, to show us Pretoria.  We learned he was a member of the Zulu (means Heaven) tribe, which with 7 million members, is South Africa's largest group.  

As George was our age, he answered many questions about life under apartheid (literally 'apartness'), especially about the details of the dreaded 'pass system', which had not allowed Blacks in White areas without an official signed pass.  During our day tour, George accompanied us tthrough several places he'd never visited as under apartheid it would not have been allowed.  One of those places is pictured below.

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Approximately the size of Spain and France combined, South Africa is now divided into 9 provinces.  Pretoria is the administrative capital and Cape Town is the seat of parliament.  The country totally surrounds Lesotho and part of Swaziland.  Bushmen from the San people first settled Southern Africa 40,000 years BC.  By the 3rd Century AD, Bantu-speaking tribespeople were well integrated into South Africa.  Various European colonialists began settling there in small numbers beginning at the Cape from the 17th Century and widespread colonial settlement of South Africa began in the 19th Century.

43.8 million people call South Africa home.  They speak 11 different languages.  The South African economy is a mixture of First and Third World with a significant disparity in incomes, standards of living, lifestyles, education and work opportunities.  Although 60 % of the continent's electricity is produced in South Africa, more than 50% of the nation's households must rely on paraffin, wood and gas for light, cooking and heating their homes.  Its not surprising the people appear to lack a 'collective' identity.  For one subset, South Africa is a modern industrialised and urban economy full of promise; for many others it is a subsistence agricultural economy little changed in over a century.  We were amazed to find almost the entire country fenced. 

The South African flag is symbolic of the recently emerged 'rainbow nation': a conglomeration of beliefs, traditions and heritages all within a country of breathtaking natural wonders.  Approved in May 1996, the new constitution has, arguably, the most enlighted Bill of Rights in the world.  It prohibits discrimination on the grounds of ethnic or social origin, religion, gender, sexual orientation and language.

View from our Centurion Lake Hotel toward the local 'Golden Gate Bridge'.

The Voortrekker Monument commemorates the Afrikaner pioneers who trekked from the Cape Colony in the 1830s to escape Britsh domination after slavery was no longer allowed there.  Begun in 1938, a hundred years after the Battle of Blood River (when the Ncome River ran red with blood as a 468-strong burgher commando unit with superior arms killed 3,000 Zulu warriors in retribution for their killing of Piet Retief, one of the trek leaders), it became a focus of Afrikaner unity. 

We could only guess what George, as a Zulu, thought about as he toured.  

As demonstrated on the exterior wall, at night, or under attack, the convoy would form a laager - a circle of wagons lashed together with chains.  This was not unlike the US' wagon trains that went "Westward Ho" through the Indians' lands.

The view of downtown Pretoria and the N1 from the top of the Voortrekker Monument.

A Bontebok running on the grounds of the Voortrekker Monument.

First imported from Rio de Janeiro in 1888, some 70,000 jacaranda trees add splashes of vivid lilac-blue color to the streets of Pretoria in late Spring.

Designed by Sir Herbert Baker, the Union Buildings were built to house the administrative offices of the Union of South Africa in 1910.  It reveals Cape Dutch and Italian influences.

Many tribes, especially the Ndebele are known for their beadwork and sculpted figurines, which were for sale on the street in front of the Union Buildings.

Central Pretoria with it's mix of modern and historical architecture.

This monument to Paul Kruger, the last president of the Zuid-Afrikaansche Republick (1883-1900), sits in the center of Church Square in Pretoria. 

Paul Kruger's house, just a short walk from Church Square, has been transformed into a museum.

A male Southern Masked Weaver works on its nest on the grounds of the DeWildt Cheetah & Breeding Centre, which we visited using a different driver, Thomas.  He was in his early 30's and concerned about the slow pace of change for his village that lacked electricity and running water in the shacks.

A Cheetah (from a Hindi word meaning 'spotted one') licks its lips after eating.  They are the fastest mammal on earth, capable of speeds up to 70 mph for distances of 200 - 300 yards.

A snarling 'king' cheetah (note the darker highlights and comparison below) waits to be fed.  This less common phenotype is due to a recessive trait.  The DeWildt Centre breeds cheetahs for zoos and game parks so that they are not taken from the wild.

We saw this brilliant red-orange Scadoxis puniceus flower, commonly known as a Blood Lily or Snake Lily, growing at DeWildt Centre and again in Zimbabwe while touring Victoria Falls NP.

Byron, is an 'ambassador', who assists with fundraising for the DeWildt Centre.  For a modest donation we were allowed to pet him and take photographs.

The DeWildt Centre is also working with Wild Dogs as they are endangered due to loss of habitat, direct persecution and diseases from a burgeoning population of domestic dogs.

We finally joined our Field Guides group, which was led by Terry Stevenson, who flew down to SA from Kenya, and Rod Cassidy, (below sporting a casted left forearm), who hailed from Pretoria: both were excellent birders! 

Rod has a tour company which travels throughout Africa for birds and other wildlife.  He can be contacted through http://www.afrotropics.co.za/ .

Crowned Plovers were present in many different parts of South Africa.

An African Green-Pigeon near Nylstrom.

A Crested Barbet was also present near Nylstrom.

A female (Black-faced) Swee Waxbill seen in a garden at Magoebaskloof.  Note the lower mandible is red.

An adult male African Emerald Cuckoo attempts to blend into the forest near our Magoebaskloof Hotel.

At Abel Erasmus Pass, we waited in hopes of seeing the very rare Taita Falcon; we were NOT disappointed!

Local tribe's people had curios for sale near where we had parked the vans (see prior group photo.) 

Part of the northern Drakensberg, 'dragon mountains' range, which seperates the high interior plateau from the subtropical coast.

A Malachite Kingfisher perches over a small stream.  (photo compliments of fellow tour member, Bob Smidt)

A Long-crested Eagle takes off along the road as we drive back to Jo'burg.

                             A Pearl-Spotted Owlet peers back at us.

Our first internal flight took us from Jo'burg to Uppington.  It is apparent from the air South Africa is predominantly a dry country with rainfall decreasing from east to west.  The Orange River, SA's longest at 1,530 miles, arises in NE Lesotho.  Here it meanders across the arid plains of the Northern Cape.

Augrabies Falls, (Aukoerebis-'place of great noise' to the early Khoina inhabitants of the area), is where the Orange River plunges 182' into a constricted gorge.  The surrounding National Park combines desert and riverine environs.

An African Redeyed Bulbul perches in one of the many types of thorny acacia trees. 

A reminder of the serious disease facing many people on the African continent.

Typical scenery in the Karoo, a region of endless vistas, where the road runs straight as an arrow to the horizon through a semi-desert plateau broken by hillocks and stone monuments.  Much of the land has been divided into LARGE sheep ranches.

The Dorper, a cross-breed of British Dorsethorn rams and blackheaded Persian ewes developed in the 1940's has become the most common breed in South Africa today.  Its adaptability enables it to thrive in all 9 provinces, especially in the drier regions for which it was bred.

Driving though Namaqualand near Pofadder, we saw the first of many large Sociable Weaver nests.  Gregarious birds, they are communal nesters and often appear to 'thatch' the poles or trees in which they build.  This one required additional bracing for the electrical pole.

Viewed from below, there are multiple entrances.

A pair of Namaqua Sandgrouse, male below female, blend well in the Namaqualand scenery.

A Karoo Bustard disappears into the brush near a road.  This is probably a male due to the well-developed black throat area.

Pale Chanting Goshawks were common in the arid areas.

Quiver trees, "Kokerbooms", seen here near Springbok are succulents which can reach a height of up to 30'. They have adapted to the extreme environmental conditions by storing water in their trunks. The tree only blossoms for the first time after 20 to 30 years and can reach 300 years of age. The wood is very light and spongy inside and because the trunk and branches can be easily hollowed out, they were used as quivers by the bushmen (San people) who formerly inhabited this area.

A Malachite Sunbird perches in an acacia tree.

Driving West into the Western Cape Province we arrived at Lambert's Bay, home to a huge Cape Gannet colony of 10,000+ birds.

Above a pair begins their mating ritual.

A solitary African Black Oystercatcher poses on one foot.

After 5 years and multiple trips to many countries in the Southern Hemisphere, we FINALLY saw our 17th and final member of the Penguin Family, the African or Jackass Penguin.  Though they were quite a distance here, we still bought wine for everyone and dinner, enjoying better views later in the trip, east of Cape Town.

A male Southern Red Bishop perches astride a reed in a wetland near Lambert's Bay attempting to attract a female with his bright breeding plumage. 

A pair of Ground Woodpeckers provide good views in a nearby snag.

These Cape Rock Hyraxes have no visible tail and blunt 'hoofed' digits.

Driving to Ceres, we noted many tree plantations in the moist areas bordering the Karoo "land of great thirst" south of the Orange River.

On the western edge of the Karoo, adequate rainfall allows some agriculture.  A Blue Crane, the national bird of South Africa, forages in a harvested wheat field.

A Klipspringer, one of the 'dwarf' antelopes known for walking on the tips of its hooves over rocky projections climbs upward at Bain's Kloof (Pass).

An Orangethroated Longclaw carries food back to its nest.  Can you separate its toes from the barbs?

In the West Coast National Park north of Cape Town, we saw this soaring Black Harrier, which is endemic to Southern Africa.

This alpha female (Common) Ostrich leads her chicks away from the roadway.

Aloe plants came in different shapes and sizes.

A Cape Francolin searches for insects in the West Coast National Park, also.

A male Cape Weaver sits amongst nests in his colony.

Table Mountain is the Cape Peninsula's most prominent feature and a welcome landmark for travelers whether approaching Cape Town by land or sea.

In Cape Town, Lion's Head separates the Atlantic suburbs from the city centre.

Cape Point juts into the southern Atlantic Ocean at the tip of the Cape of Good Hope near the entrance into False Bay.  We enjoyed a day-long pelagic trip for seabirds in the area: no one got 'seasick'.

Cape Town is the parliamentary capital of the republic and the capital of Western Cape province.  It was first settled by the Dutch East India Company in the late 16th Century.  This was the view from our Cape Town hotel.

The world's plant life is divided into just 6 Floral Kingdoms and South Africa is the only country with one of these kingdoms entirely within its borders.  This King Protea is characteristic of the fynbos (fine-leaved bush) members of the Cape Floral Kingdom in Western Cape.  Over 8,000 different species of fynbos plants have been recorded, 70% are endemic.

A male Cape Sugarbird feeds on another type of flowering Protea in this photo.  Note the bird's long 'streamers'.

Near Betty's Bay we visited one of the 3 mainland breeding colonies of the Jackass Penguin and were rewarded with excellent views and behavior. 

Clumsy on land, these penguins literally 'fly' through the liquid medium.

Leopard Kloof east of Cape Town.

One of the many shanty towns near Cape Town, representative of where the majority of Blacks still live: 'economic apartheid' is dying far too slow for most of them. 

From Cape Town, we flew NE to Durban on the Indian Ocean.  We drove through miles of sugar cane and tree plantations to visit Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve.  The ravine, which was carved by the Umzimkulwana River, is 15 miles long, up to 3 miles wide and 975' deep.  No one did the bungee-jump.

Driving further west and climbing into the southern Drakensberg, we stayed at Valemount Country Lodge near Underberg.  It was our base for ascending into the small kindgom of Lesotho, which like Swaziland is surrounded by South Africa.

The only access route to Lesotho from KwaZulu Natal province is via Sani Pass, which ascends over a gravel road to a height of 4,225' over 13 miles through some stunning scenery, such as this view of the 12 Apostles.

                     Target birds here included this Sentinel Rock Thrush.

And this Orangebreasted Rock Jumper, which was carrying nesting material.

Crossing the border into Lesotho was quite easy compared to some other countries later in our trip.

We also saw this colorful Drakensberg Crag Lizard and a menacingly-colored red and white stink grasshopper (below).

Herders in Lesotho must dress warmly due to the elevation.

The Basotho people, who were quite interested in our digital cameras and binoculars, still have a strong traditional culture consisting of the customs, rites and superstitions with which they explain and enrich their lives.

These are typical homes in Lesotho, which is one of the world's poorest countries.

Here women offer traditional woven hats for sale in maloti, which is fixed at the value of the South African rand.

These salmon-colored bells were near where we re-entered into South Africa.

Traveling in an easterly direction again, we visited Howick Falls in the Midlands where water drops 363' into a large pool.

We enjoyed our day at Mkuze Game Reserve where we both birded and watched mammals from hides located near waterholes.

A group of 4 Burchhell's zebras drank briefly and then moved away under the watchful eye of the only male. 

A male Warthog appeared, too.

A male Nyalala watched carefully as 2 females drank water.

Crested Guineafowl are uncommon and localised residents.

A White Rhinoceros, which typically grazes on grasses, made its way to a waterhole. 

Trumpeter Hornbill with a large dark casque above its dark bill, too.

A hinge-backed tortoise moves away.

This bull White Rhinoceros was busy scent marking this rubbing post in it's territory near the roadway.

The final few days in South Africa were spent in the highland grasslands of the Eastern Transvaal near Wackerstroom.

              A pair of Red-knobbed Coots enters the water.

A Wattled Lapwing is the largest member of the Family in Southern Africa and prefers damp grasslands and wetlands.

Note the white streamers from the head of this breeding-plumaged Purple Heron.

IF you'd like to see photos from the remainder of our trip, please click in the lower right corner to return to the top and select the page on the Left titled: 2 Deserts, an Ocean & a Delta.